I read and bought it. 645 lenses such as the mamiya apo line and pentax edif can operate within these conditions without vignetting on apsc sensors. Find out what happens when Chris shoots some very expired APS film using old Canon and Nikon cameras. One of the prime examples of such a design is the "nifty fifty"the 50mm F1.8 lens construction that many lens manufacturers provide. The focuser adjustment ring on the Rokinon 135mm F/2 is excellent, but fine-tuning your critical focus on a bright star at F/2 will take some trial and error to get right. Hate these presumptuous kinds of articles and headlines. If you want to preview the image field you can expect with a particular camera sensor and lens combination, Stellarium features a useful tool. MCovington, my Zeiss 300/4 is the full thickness barrel version, made in West Germany, serial number 5990836. Let's dig in. I think the readers would welcome contributions from other members' experiences. Is this Nikon already, Astro modified, without need for H alpha filters or any further modifications? Selecting between it and the 200mm Takumar was not an easy choice but, in the end, I chose the Takumar because it seemed to have slightly better contrast. But you are talking more than 2x crop (cut half by width and height) and that leaves you to twice smaller resolution == quarter of the Mpix count.So now your 42Mpix A7rII is only a 10.5Mpix. To achieve creamy bokeh, a lens should have a wide maximum aperture and a long focal length. Of the old teles I've had, Nikon's 400mm f/3.5 was decent, Olympus's 300mm f/4.5 was good (it had a precursor to ED glass) Pentax's 300mm Takumar was TERRIBLE, Pentax's 500mm was terrible, Nikon's 135 f/2.8 Q was ok, and Sigma's 400mm f/5.6 "apo" was satisfactory. Yes, each can produce different results (And that's why I keep and use several different lenses), but my point is that sharpness or bokeh are not the only factors for portraits -- sometimes it just comes down to convenience or price! If canon puts an IS on this lens, it would be perfect! My copy has very stiff manual focus though and is quite heavy. Everyone should have one? It improves slightly stopped down. I used Canon's 135 f/2 for ten years. It's just "girl" in front of blurriness.#2: Plants on a pond.It's okay. At f/32, it's pretty soft, but less so than a lot of lenses at that aperture. Very sharp even at f2, build quality, price, weight, autofocus is fast, bokeh, No IS, flare, autofocus isn't quite as consistent as some newer lenses, focus speed, image quality, predictability, Image quality, build like a tank, focus ring, weight. Bottom line, this is just an outstanding lens by any measure, one that makes clear why you'd want to pay the freight for expensive prime glass. The clip-in Astronomik 12nm Ha is one of their most popular filters ever and for good reason! People mistake "Bokeh" to blurry background, what is very very common mistake. Manually focusing a lens for astrophotography is nothing new, but the manual aperture ring adjustments may feel a little strange at first. I've owned nice SLR gear since 1976, and am normally a wide angle shooter this is my favorite lens, of all time. Or is there a use case for fitting the Samyang 135mm to a Panasonic gx85 (or Panasonic gh5) ?? (purchased for $900). Check out some of the photos he took. Aperture ring. It is worth of it's price?Any links to astrophotos with this lens?Thanks. Given the spot on DPR front page, lots of 'what-lens-should-I-buy' newbies will be spending their money on this one. I just love the lightning fast & accurate focus of this lens. It really is about talent, creativity, and vision, not gear. You can use Stellarium to preview the image scale with the 135mm lens and your DSLR. - Actually though, it's performance is so good that you really have to consider it a bargain, even at the $800-900 street price. BirdDog P240 40X NDI PTZ Camera. Unfortunately, standard photography lenses are generally poorly corrected for CA at the red end of the spectrum, relying on the human eye's poorer resolution in red than green or blue. I love this lens, The Sharpest Lens available for Eos cameras IMO Fast. (purchased for $900), reviewed April 15th, 2011 At $900 US it a relative steal. D8XX cameras, subject isolation and quality of bokeh.Zoom lenses can not hold a candle to such primes. You will see why. Yes there's bokeh. When I was on my way home after purchasing my first 135mm lens (the Samyang/Rokinon one) I took a few quick snapshots just to try out the lens. The flat lens hood is great for taking flat frames after a night of astrophotography. Photos posted are pleasing but I'd be into seeing something new. Are you really using 135 a lot? Panasonic 35-100mm f2.8. I stopped reading after the part where someone I don't know told me I "should" be doing something. No telephoto lens I tested, nor my TSAPO65Q, was suitable for use with a DSLR "clear glass" modified to include deep red and IR. What I see is a photographer who should maybe instead stick to the kit lens, and learn composition first. The difference between modern and old telephoto lenses is probably similar to the difference between my APO and an old Jaegers 5in F5. A higher-res Blackmagic Studio Camera just dropped. And it's not the one problem from my L lenses very sad =(, My favourite lens, hands down. F2 allows higher shutter speeds in lower light without raising the ISO. (purchased for $900), reviewed December 4th, 2006 Litepanels Studio X2 Bi-Color LED Fresnel Light. The author's recipe for a good photo is:1) Just shoot blindly, with no regard to what's in the frame, because the lens will blur away everything on the background.2) If (1) does not work, just head on to https://www.bhphotovideo.com, download a jpg of the lens you were using, and photoshop it on top of the taillaits of the passig car that didn't get blurred out enough.3?) I do not like this. I also find the other photos not very good. Such "full spectrum" cameras are somewhat more sensitive in the ultraviolet, but much more sensitive in the deep red and infrared. This lens is simply lighter, cheaper & faster (f/2.0 vs f/2.8). 135 mm. Thats quite a jump from 135mm, so the camera body you use with this lens may change the types of targets you shoot. This lens is available for several camera mounts, including Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Samsung, and Fuji. Besides, adding IS would mean adding extra elements and that would very likely reduce the image quality. From the moment I reviewed the first sub-exposure on the display screen of my camera, I feel in love with the mid-range magnification of a 135mm lens. It also focuses really fast and accurate and is light. I was expecting a lot more of an article that says "the best telephoto lenses for astrophotography". In fact, a light-weight 200/2.8 seems more interesting to own (e.g., the Minolta 200/2.8). Overall, spectacular lens. You can go lower, but you have to watch your technique. Now, I have to admit that up to this point, it sounds a little too good to be true. I had of course heard that this lens is supposed to be very sharp, but I had never before had such a full blown "wow" experience when reviewing the sharpness of a lens. Yuri toropin tests a bunch of lenses on Flickr which is a great source. My work requires auto-focus. I had both for a while. (cont. I rarely shoot static landscapes or posed, composed images. Unfortunately it is not manufactured in a multicoated version, and produces prominent internal reflection artifacts on very bright stars. The 135 is lighter, but that's its only advantage. Definitely now on my to-buy list. (purchased for $890), reviewed October 21st, 2005 Not rude at all, a fair comment. This includes everything from the rich star fields of Sagittarius, to a complete look at the Andromeda Galaxy. But like a glitch in the matrix, an anomaly that shouldn't exist, you can get the Samyang/Rokinon 135mm for as little as $430 brand new. The 135mm focal length is absolutely perfect for the Heart and Soul Nebulae if youre using a crop sensor DSLR camera. A lot of lenses today are better than anything money could buy in 1980. These lenses go about as close as you could get without a dedicated macro lens. The Bokeh includes as well all that is in the focus, but mainly talked about how it comes visible in out of focus areas. That's a cheap, fun date for AP. Of the 150 images I considered fit to publish, only 4 were made with the 135. This creates an effective focal length of roughly 200mm, a useful magnification for a wide variety of astro-imaging scenarios. Particular properties of modern 135/2 lenses are resolution with e.g. Available Monday. As you'd expect from a premium prime lens, both maximum and average chromatic aberration is very low across the aperture range, with the maximum CA on the order of 0.02% of frame height regardless of aperture. The images were collected using a Canon EOS Rebel T3i camera riding on a Fornax Mounts LighTrack II. lol, nice images, and i nearly bought this lens myself a few years ago. Olympus 4x Optical Zoom f/2 Lens; 25-100mm (35mm Equivalent) Show More. I've recently started using 135 and 200mm lenses from the 1970s with my mono CCD and they've proven very useful for imaging large emission nebulae. It focuses within a blink of an eye, instantly. I almost bought one, but couldn't manage that focal length and DoF with moving subjects and manual focus. But the Rokinon f/2 version fits into a different market. My point is that we must never lose the joy of photography. Canon 300/4 ED IF AF (non-IS) The full name of this lens is the Rokinon 135mm F/2 ED UMC, with ED standing for extra-low dispersion, and UMC referring to the ultra multi-coated optics. If you can afford it buy this lens, you will love it. Proper composition, light and retouching are much prefferable to crazy gooey bokeh. However, I am convinced that its large aperture and fast F ratio would perform exceptionally well in three color or narrow band H-alpha and OIII photography. All of them are extremely sharp and produce mouth-watering bokeh, and all of them are reasonably priced for what you get. 21P Giacobini Zinner NGC1499 California Barnard 8 Cr399 Coathanger North America and Pelican Veil nebula HORGB M11 cluster area Were those taken with the Canon telephotos you spoke of, and the full spectrum modified camera and the clip in filter? The RedCat is deeper at 250mm, and after that, youre into 300-400mm territory which pulls galaxies and nebulae even closer. For the rest there is Sigma 135 /1.8 Art also fantastic value lens. Sure, the Nifty 50 is an incredible value (and a LOT cheaper), but the 135mm puts you within range of some of the best astrophotography targets in the night sky. The full name of this lens is the Rokinon 135mm F/2 ED UMC, with "ED" standing for extra-low dispersion, and UMC referring to the "ultra multi-coated" optics. Better than nothing I guess, would depend on how much it raises the price. In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for shooting sports and action, and recommended the best. Off topic, For comparison, no other lens I know of would earn more than 8/10. What I am trying to avoid is spending another $1,100 on a quality APO, and instead using my existing Nikkor 180mm ED lens with a Baader-modified Canon 450D that I just obtained. After the first exposure in M mode, the camera throws an error saying Error please press the shutter button again. Probably you could get a very similar image with a 85mm 1.8. You can also find him as @mwroll on Instagram and 500px. On the 135/2 all you've got is the bare metal. No telephoto lens, and no apochromat, is sufficiently corrected to accomodate such a wide spectral range. I have done a review comparing the sharpness and quality of bokeh to the Canon 70-200 2.8. I do know, however, that I can take an equally framed photo I've shot with my Canon kit lens, both zoomed to 100% I run circles around this guy. Well saturated but neutral. I use it to photograph highschool basketball in poor light. At under 900USD, it's a steal. Im getting a samyang to use with my 60D. Hi Thomas As far as I know, the Nikon D500 is not modified for astrophotography out of the box (it includes a built in IR cut filter that blocks much of the 656nm wavelength). Youll never have to worry about losing your position just by touching the lens, but you can always tape the position down to be sure. OK guysTOS rule number one "Posts that are not respectful of other individuals (be they members or not) are not welcome here.". If so, which one? Bond, I expect you to buy! f/2! Some people like these, and consider them decorative. For that I would investigate alternatives just to make sure. Do I wish it were manufactured with metal? Some of the primes have a special look to them, but only the 70-200 is indispensable. The 135L is half the weight of the 70-200 2.8IS. On FF I use this lens for both tight portraits and landscape shots. Focusing should be done on moderately bright stars using the 10x magnified Live View. Stuff I used to take the photos. When i check a F stop chart, i see 15 stops if i count the main, and the secondary ones: 2, 2.4, 2.8, 3.3, 4, 4.8, 5.6, 6.7, 8, 9.5, 11, 13, 16, 19, 22. Sharp, handy, strong colours and contrast. While some people LOVE the bokeh circles (first photo), others hate them and consider them a distraction.The 50mm f/1.8 is hardly a lens to talk about. Also Nikon DC 135mm f/2 is a great lens, a little better than 135mm Canon When coupled with my Canon DSLR camera, the entire system weighs just over 3 pounds. I typically shoot with Canon lenses, but the potential for low light photography (whether thats astrophotography or the ability to film at dusk) caught my interest. (purchased for $845), reviewed November 16th, 2005 Extrapolating from this, minimum recommended guidescope power is 120x for the 300mm telephoto, 80x for the 200mm, and 55x for the 135mm. I do not think telephoto lenses would be suitable for use with your modified camera. The aperture ring is marked with each f-stop, and you need to manually click through F/2 F/22 and watch the blades do their work. Canon CR-N700 4K PTZ Camera with 15x Zoom. I've seen several listed but here are more to consider. I can tell you its a great performer for astro use. (purchased for $900), reviewed November 2nd, 2015 In my test, nikon have the same color correction than Canon and same sharpness. Sharp wide open, wonderful bokeh, fast AF in dark conditions. The other one is the inevitable and persistent regret that, because of chromatic aberration, the full 75mm aperture of this beautiful lens can not be used in full visible spectrum photography. I also tested 200 f/2.8 tele and it is one of the most perfect lens in existence, as well as the 135. As I posted on the Petapixel variant of this article, cropping a 85/1.4 shot to a 135mm-equivalent FoV gives you approx. Lagoon and Trifid wide field IC1396 nebula in Cepheus - wide field image. Lior, I have done a lot of reading on modern zoom lenses. A series of such images can be digitally stacked to produce excellent results. I think prime users get too used to the idea of bokeh as the only answer. Whatever lens you pick in the end, you will make a great purchase. Sure, not all 135mm lenses are lightweightSigma's new 135mm F1.8 is rather heavy at 1130gbut if you look at the Samyang 135mm F2, which is pretty much flawless optically, it weighs only 830g. To actually learn to compose the photos so that the background complements the image instead of being something that must be blurred away. Agreed. Voting ends March 8, 2023. Simple as that! The Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 includes a lens hood, lens pouch, front and rear lens caps, and a 1-year Rokinon manufacturer warranty. As a complete beginner in Astrophotography should I buy Rokinon 135mm lens or Canon EF 75-300mm lens with Canon EF 50mm lens? The best of them, Nikon's 70-200E, is just as sharp all but the very best primes - ie, already too sharp for most portrait work. Interesting that ancient, low-tech (no ED glass, no special coatings) non-apo telephotos could produce decent results compared to something modern.
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